Importance of Fish in Ningol Chakouba Celebrations

In many Indian cultures, fish forms an essential part of the rituals whether it be during Annaprashan sanskara (first solid food-eating/rice-eating ceremony of the baby), weddings or conveyance of any good news such as the birth of a baby in the family. Fish symbolises fertility, wealth and good luck. During Ningol Chakouba too, fish forms the major food item, with rohu and sareng being the lip-smacking ones. In fact, rice with fish curry is the staple diet of the Meiteis. Whereas rohu is a fresh-water fish that is enjoyed by many either fried or in the form of a curry, sareng is one of the most expensive fishes (of the catfish variety which does not have any scales) that adds an air of royalty to the menu. Since the necessary spices required for preparing the sareng thongba (curry of sareng fish) have to be proportionate in all respects, it is not easy a process besides being time-consuming too. The body of the sareng fish needs to be rubbed with guava leaves so as to get rid of the stickiness before it is cooked. Hence, experts having good enough knowledge of all the ingredients are hired to prepare this fish speciality to mark the occasion.

The Meiteis are equally fond of pengba, khaba, ngaton, ngakra, hilsa, and prawn. These are also included as a part of the lavish and extensive non-vegetarian menu, depending upon the affordability of the respective families. The different preparations of fish are served with steaming hot rice and not roti, which means that all the dishes are mostly cooked in a gravy-base of local herbs, crushed garlic, tomato, onion and bay leaves which enhance the flavour. Since the Meiteis are known to love the bitter taste of suktani (leaves of a bush which grow abundantly in the thick forests of Northeast India, especially Nagaland, Mizoram, and Manipur), it is served in the form of a dry sabzi as a starter with rice. As a tradition, the food is served on banana leaves with a spoonful of salt and bamboo shoot pickle on the side. Nowadays, however, food is served on steel and plastic plates too.

The first course comprises of uti (a classic Manipuri vegetarian dish consisting mainly of lentils), eromba (a chutney of fermented fish, which is also a popular Manipuri delicacy), nga touba (fish-fry), chagempomba (a dish of rice, green vegetables and fermented soyabean), and singzu (vegetable salad with fermented fish). This is followed by sagolhawai (a thick gravy-based curry of black beans/urad dal), chamfut (vegetable stew), laphu eromba (a Manipuri style banana stem curry), and soibum thongba (bamboo shoot curry with mashed potatoes). The main course consists of rice, nga thongba (fish curry generally prepared with Catla or Grass-carp fishes), nakuppi thongba (a curry of locally-grown traditional herbs with lots of green chillies and no oil), kanglayen paknam (stuffed mushroom with besan), fish cutlets, chicken curry, and paneer cooked in milk. These are some of the diverse cuisines (iinjang mathen-lukoi) arranged for the ladies by their male siblings and relatives as a part of the sumptuous Ningol Chakouba lunch.

Fish curry and eromba being the signature delicacies of Manipuri cuisine, are must items of the day. In the absence of either of them, the Ningol Chakouba feast remains incomplete. Nga agouba (a dish of fried potatoes mixed with small pieces of fish), a local Manipuri cuisine, is another popular item. It ends with one last course of sweet-dish of either Manipuri black rice kheer or fruit salad that is made up of local, seasonally-available fruits mixed with gur (jaggery). It needs to be mentioned here that the love for fermented fish is a common thread that unites the different states of Northeast India. It is almost a customary ritual in every household here to preserve fish, so that they never run short of it during the official period of government ban on marine fishing in the Bay of Bengal during the months of April-June, and also during the monsoons, i.e. the period of fish spawning in the local waters of the states.

Manipur’s capital city Imphal is filled with a festive mood on the eve of Ningol Chakouba, which is nowadays celebrated with a great fervour throughout the state. The shops open early in the morning as they get ready to welcome scores of customers throughout the day till almost midnight. In fact, Ningol Chakouba has almost become identical with shopping, which is one of the major attractions of this festival. All the major market areas of the state such as Paona Bazaar, Thangal Bazaar, etc. remain abuzz with activities starting from Deepawali onwards. Well-known jewellery chains, handloom emporiums, automobile dealers, and electronic shops offer attractive sales as Ningol Chakouba approaches. For entrepreneurs and business establishments, this is a time of the year to earn handsome profits.

Thousands of shoppers, both men and women, coming from various far-flung areas of the state throng the all-women Khwairamband Keithel or mother’s market – the famous and one of the busiest market places situated in the heart of Imphal city – for last-minute shopping for eatables, clothes, and other accessories. Many a times, massive traffic congestions hit Khwairamband Bazaar since the market is flooded with ecstatic buyers on the occasion of Ningol Chakouba, causing trouble to the residents. Fish and clothes are sold with a great passion and zeal by the elderly ladies. This largest in Asia, unique all-women market of Manipur, is representative of the fiercely independent spirit of Manipuri women. An array of items, from mosquito nets to fresh fish and hand-woven textiles to cosmetics and kitchen utilities, can be bought here at a quite modest budget.

The market demand for fish witnesses a huge surge just a few days ahead of the festival. Crowds of people could be seen making a beeline in front of the fish stalls waiting for their turn to arrive. Sometimes, customers could be seen quarrelling over the price of fish. In order to liven up the festivities, special fish fairs-cum-fish crop competitions, besides fishing and angling competitions, are organised in several districts of the state, which are thronged by thousands of people. These are generally held two days before the festival under the aegis of the State Fisheries Department, Government of Manipur. Various species of local fresh-water fish are being displayed for sale at one place and at a low market price. Hundreds of stalls are put up by fish farmers who come from faraway places to take part in these fairs. This also helps save time and money on the part of the buyers. A temporary fish market is being put up by the Department at the Imphal Hapta Kangjeibung (one of the world’s polo grounds and also the main venue where Manipur’s Sangai Festival is held every year during November-December) where fish is sold at cheaper rates to attract customers from various socio-economic strata to purchase fish for Ningol Chakouba.

This year, on November 1, 2020 at the 31^st Loktak Day Celebrations at the Loktak Lake, Moirang, Manipur Fishery Minister S. Rajen had assured the people of the state that different varieties of fish would be abundantly available to them at an affordable price during the Ningol Chakouba celebrations on November 17. The significance of fish in popular cultural traditions of the state can be understood from the fact that around five lakh small fishes of numerous species were released into the Loktak Lake by the Minister with an eye on the upcoming festival. It is common knowledge that the best quality of fish in Manipur comes from the Loktak Lake, which is the largest natural freshwater lake in the Northeast that also houses the Keibul Lamjao National Park – the only floating park in the world.

Keeping in mind the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic and the economic slowdown, the Manipur State Fisheries Department had procured fish so as to make it available to the people at cheap market prices for the festival. However, due to the bulk production of local fish species in the state during this time of the year, the price of fish reared locally remain unchanged, in contrast to the price of fish brought from outside the state which remains somewhat high. Manipur, in general, like most other states of Northeast India, is blessed with a good fish production.

Public Celebrations of Ningol Chakouba

Declared as a state holiday by the Government of Manipur, Ningol Chakouba is no longer confined to the geographical boundaries of Manipur, but has attained a global appeal among the Manipuri diaspora. It is celebrated with much enthusiasm by different social organisations not only in Manipur, but also across different places of India and abroad too. E.g. In November 2019, different communities from Manipur now settled in South Korea had observed Ningol Chakouba along with the Chavang Kut (an autumn harvest festival) of the Kuki-Chin Mizos, under the aegis of the Korea Manipuri Association (KMA) at Lake Town Pension House located in Anseong City, South Korea. The joint event was celebrated under the theme Ching Tam Aamatani, i.e. the hill and the valley both, are one and the same. It is even celebrated in far-away Canada by the Manipuri Association of Canada in full gaiety and splendour.

At home in India, the Association of Manipuri Diaspora (AMAND) of Pune, which is a non-profit/non-government community organisation, founded by working/retired Manipuri professionals residing in and around Pune, has been organising Ningol Chakouba events every year since 2016 to foster the spirit of community harmony and goodwill among fellow Manipuris. It is also annually celebrated in India’s IT capital Bengaluru by the Manipuri Meitei Association of Bengaluru. In Kolkata, a Ningol Chakouba event is hosted by the organisation called Manipuris in Kolkata (MIK) at the Naktala Udayan Sangha in Gariahat, Kolkata. Different Manipuri dance performances including the Manipuri classical dance form called Jagoi and a popular folk dance called Thabal Choungba associated with the Yaoshang (Holi) festival, are organised to mark the event for people residing in the city and its nearby areas. In the UT of Delhi and India’s National Capital, the 5^th edition of Ningol Chakouba was held amid great pomp and show in November 2019, at the GLT Saraswati Bal Mandir in Lajpat Nagar sponsored by the Ningol Chakouba Organising Committee under the aegis of the Manipuri Students’ Association, Delhi. Many dignitaries including BJP MPs like Meenakshi Lekhi and Raju Bista had graced the occasion. Various cultural programmes including folk songs and dances of Manipur were organised as a part of the event, the major attraction of which however, was the Ras Leela tradition of the state.

The objective behind organising these festivals in some of the major cities of India is to bring together all the people of a particular state residing there on a special day of the year, since not all might be able to visit their hometown during the festival. It is about re-creating that small world of being a part of something, which is not just about the individual person, but the feeling of belongingness to a community despite geographical and physical distance. It also conveys the message that India is one, and the differences of region, language or facial features that appear on the surface diminish as soon as we start scratching the same surface to delve deep down.

In Manipur, a few prominent socio-cultural and non-government organisations organise Ningol Chakouba to spread the message of unity and harmony. The All Manipur Educational Social and Cultural Organisation (AMESCO) has been organising the Ningol Chakouba festival every year since 1993, with the aim of bringing together the different communities of people living in Manipur. Local TV channels telecast special historical, cultural and entertainment programmes for women to mark this auspicious occasion. Theatres arrange special screening shows of popular movies and documentaries. Beauty parlours too, offer special discounts for the ladies on this joyous day. Beauty pageant contests are held under the aegis of different voluntary organisations in which young aspiring models exuding confidence walk the ramps in beautiful traditional costumes. Such contests are generally organised to collect funds for a good cause, like construction of rehabilitation homes for women victims of militancy, sexual abuse, poor and destitute women, etc.

Bumper lotteries and musical concerts called Ningol Nachoms are organised at night in which Pibas and Ningols sing songs together. Well-known artistes are also invited to these events to entertain the audience with their popular Manipuri songs and dances such as Dasa Avatar Nritya, Maibi dance, Kabui dance, etc. Besides dice, local games called Tambola or Housie, are a part and parcel of this festival. Grand Housie events are organised by different local clubs and community organisations of the Meiteis, with attractive prizes including cash and gifts like cars, washing machines, etc. being awarded to the winners. To promote the works of Manipuri artisans and craftsmen, handicraft and handloom exhibitions are organised a week ahead of the festival by the Manipur Apex Handloom Weavers’ and Handicrafts Cooperative Society Ltd. They provide buyers with a range of options among different products on display under one roof, as per their choice and budget.

Sometimes, the state government announces special schemes for different categories of women including widows, and single mothers and underprivileged children, on this day. For Ningols who stay far away from their hometown because of professional commitments, parents and brothers ensure that special gifts, mostly handloom items, are being sent to them well in advance either through courier or some known relative staying in proximity to her. Those who manage to come home, it is a very nice opportunity to not only meet their parents and relatives but also indulge their tongues in the long-lost yet close-to-the-heart taste of authentic traditional dishes. With the changing times, the celebrations of festivals such as Raksha Bandhan and Bhaiyya Dooj have undergone significant changes, e.g. e-greetings in the form of e-mails, online Bhai Dooj teeka and thali, chocolate and beverage hampers, etc. available in the market. However, the typical local flavours of Ningol Chakouba with all its uniqueness still remain intact.

Ningol Chakouba is a revival and reinforcement of the fraternal bond of love, responsibility and protection that exists between brothers and sisters. It is a day exclusively meant for women to be with her parents and siblings and share with them the joys and sorrows of her married life. The excitement in looking forward to the daughter’s visit, the feeling of joy and satisfaction during her stay, and the vacuum that her parting away leaves, can only be felt by her own parents. Ningol Chakouba is like a pleasant recollection of all these mixed feelings. Filled with love and laughter, Ningol Chakouba celebrates the woman’s importance in the society, her origins and also serves as a reminder to everyone in the family that her marriage left behind a void in her home that is still irreplaceable. She is simply to be loved and respected for whoever she is. The basic human instinct of missing our loved ones and the emotional longing for spending some quality time with them on a special day every year, is the essence behind this simple yet meaningful festival. It also relieves women, irrespective of age, profession or social strata, from the monotony of their daily preoccupations to relax and have some fun time at their parents’ homes.

Hence, Ningol Chakouba is popularly touted as Manipur’s own women’s day – a festival of homecoming, sharing and merriment when people look beyond petty family conflicts, sibling rivalries, and difficulties of circumstances. Many a married woman staying in distant places plan their trip back home to coincide around the time of Deepawali.

Journalist Chitra Ahanthem believes that Ningol Chakouba, a premier festival of the Meiteis, is “probably the Meitiei equivalent of Diwali, when new clothes are bought and gifts and sweets are exchanged. For the Meiteis, chaak chaanaba or having a family meal together with the married daughters has, for long, been the most interactive social activity.”

Several valley-based civil organisations of the Meiteis in Manipur invite their fellow brothers and sisters from the hill areas to be a part of the grand Ningol Chakouba feast. In many such instances, the village chiefs and village authority members usually accompany the sister-invitees of their respective villages, primarily because of the distance factor, convenience and time. A formal function is organised in the pre- and post-lunch sessions, in which selected participants are invited over the stage to give speeches about their experiences of the festival. Daughters of non-Meitei families married to Meitei men are invited too. They are given gifts by the male members of the organising committee as a symbol of brotherly warmth and appreciation. Day-long conferences on issues of women empowerment, child health and nutrition, menstrual health and hygiene, differently-abled women, etc. are organised in several places of Manipur on this day by different organisations associated with the cause. Prominent speakers with expertise on these areas are invited as the chief guests.

A few years back, former CM of Manipur Okram Ibobi Singh had spoken in glorifying length on the changing trends of the festival, which has taken to a campaign mode in the recent times especially in Ukhrul, Chandel, and Tamenglong districts for strengthening inter-community ties. This is mainly aimed at sending out a message of peaceful co-existence, and social and ethnic harmony, besides strengthening the age-old ties among the valley and the hill residents of Manipur, who have been constantly engulfed in their own deep-rooted insecurities with respect to the vexed issue of land. In the past, it has led to the outbreak of violent social movements both for and against the introduction of the Inner Line Permit (ILP) system in Manipur. Thus, the celebration of festivals such as Ningol Chakouba helps pave the way for social unification and emotional integration among different ethnic groups and communities of Manipur. The hill people call it by the name of Ningol Ningsing.

Nowadays, even the police and other government departments including Assam Rifles organise Ningol Chakouba feasts as a part of their civic action programmes. This is aimed at conflict management and peace-building in a state like Manipur that has been a witness to severe ethnic strife and armed insurgency in the past. The All Manipuri Students’ Union also organises a feast on the occasion of Ningol Chakouba at its head office in Imphal. In Assam, the Barak Valley unit of All Assam Manipuri Students’ Union (AAMSU) has been organising a Ningol Chakouba feast in Silchar for their fellow Manipuri brothers and sisters every year since 2015. Nowadays, non-Manipuri families living in Manipur such as Bengalis and Marwaris too, invite their daughters and sisters for being a part of the Ningol Chakouba festivities at home.

This is the exceptionally vibrant cultural fabric of Bharat united in the bond of civilisational unity and integrity, from the land of Rishi Kashyap in the north to Kanyakumari in the south, and from Gujarat in the west to Arunachal in the east. Despite numerous outside threats to its existence and survival since time immemorial till the present day, it has been successfully able to resist such attempts and flourish at its fullest possible limits.

References:

1. https://www.google.com/amp/www.pothashang.in/2019/11/05/korea-manipuri-association-jointly-celebrated-ningol-chakouba-chavang-kut-2019/amp/
2. http://www.centrepeaceconflictstudies.org/transforming-ethnic-conflicts-in-manipur-through-ningol-chakouba-2/
3. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.deccanchronicle.com/amp/lifestyle/culture-and-society/031119/manipuri-festival-celebrated-with-pomp-in-delhi.html
4. http://www.uniindia.com/fish-to-be-provided-in-abundance-before-ningol-chakkouba-festival-minister/east/news/2230241.html
5. https://thefrontiermanipur.com/fishery-dept-to-organise-fish-exhibition-for-ningol-chakouba-festival/

A special note of thanks to Dr. Diana Naorem, my senior, for first introducing me to the festival and certain minute details associated with it. Thank you dearest Dr. Babeena for explaining to me the celebrations and different rituals that are a part of this wonderful festival.  

Image Credit: Times of India