Guruvayoor Sri Krishna temple is often known as the Dwaraka of the south and is hosting the prestigious Ekadashi Maholsav on the 30th of November.

Ajitha Hare Jaya,

Madhava Vishnu

The nostalgic, deep voice of the singer reverberated all over the rustic koothambalam, and the kathakali Padam(lyrics) that was composed in the transcendental sriraga played its notes within the hearts of everyone present in the audience. The atmosphere was that of Bhakti and comfort, which seemed to have had made its way into everyone’s minds and eyes. On the stage was the Kuchela, the childhood friend of Bhagavan Krishna, the now king of Dwaraka who came to him with high hopes and reluctance. Looking every bit like the destitute Brahmin he was, he praised Bhagavan without holding back any of his love, respect and intimidation. Bhagavan sat there, accepting every bit of it, reciprocating it with kindness, bliss and modesty, so moved by the gesture.His beautiful yellow silk is glistening in the light of those many sacred bronze lamps, his crown and ornaments shimmering, his aesthetically painted face displaying the hearty rasa of Karuna (kindness) and adbuta (wonder). One cannot watch it without entertaining a bit of jealousy towards Kuchela, for having experienced such unconditional love from Bhagavan himself.For an eight year old me , it was the beginning of a beautiful relationship. One of Krishna Bhakti, which then seeped its way into every part and shades of my life . There began the quest to experience the lahari , rapture and euphoria of Bhakti that every blessed Krishna devotee had experienced, right from Kuchela to Narada to Poonthanam.

(A scene from KuchelaVritham Kathakali)

Having had the luck to be born in a practising Hindu family of northern Kerala, which had passionate, ardent followers and patrons of art, literature and scriptures, it was an easier journey. The options were many. Every shade of the Krishnaavataram was so beautifully depicted in various Carnatic kritis, paintings, classical dance forms and spiritual compositions. The kathakali padams were overflowing with it. Swati Tirunal kritis which drew a vivid picture of a bereaved Nayika, who couldn’t contain the pain of separation from Padmanabha were so beautifully enacted through mohiniyattam. The exquisite Ravi Varma paintings which had full of life depictions of Bhagavan and his childhood, the ashtapadis that were offered in the neighbourhood Krishna Temple every morning, it all set the perfect stage for it. Is there any other concept that is as colourful and versatile as Bhagavan, I wonder.

(A Ravi Varma painting depicting baby Krishna and Yashoda)

I often think that life of a Krishna devotee is relatively easier.There are so many ways to show him the strength of it, and all of them so hearty, colourful and simple. Afterall पत्रं पुष्पं फलं तोयं यो मे भक्त्या प्रयच्छति ,तदहं भक्त्युपहृतमश्नामि प्रयतात्मन (If one offers to me with devotion a leaf, a flower, a fruit ,or even water I delightfully partake o f that article offered with love by my devotee In pure consciousness) is what he said in Bhagavat Gita (Chapter 9, verse 26). I have often marveled at the kindness he extended, the simplicity with which he made it possible for his devotees to please him.The metaphysical , omnipotent , incomprehensible Parabrahmam, stood before us , as the quirky , naughty, kind and affable Sri Krishna avatar, and gave us snippets on bhakti, moksha, karma and truth in a clear and concise form and made liberation possible to everyone who had the time to listen. Arjuna said to have received Geethopadesham on an ekadashi day, one of the most sacred days for Vaishnavites.

In Kerala, this day is celebrated as the Guruvayoor Ekadashi on the shuklapaksha during the Malayalam month of Vrishchikam. It’s a much-awaited celebration at the Guruvayoor Temple, which is often referred to as bhooloka Vaikuntha. The Krisha Vigraha at Guruvayoor carved out of the sacred Patala Anjanam rock is said to have been worshipped by Maha Vishnu himself in Vaikuntha. It was then passed through the hands of Brahma Deva, Suthapas, Kashyapa, Vasudeva and then reached Sri Krishna. At the time of his ascension to Vaikuntha, it was passed on to his devotee Udava with instructions to entrust Brihaspati with the task of finding a suitable place for installation in Kaliyuga. Guru Brihaspati and his disciple Vayu are said to have travelled the entire world and finally at the request of Parashurama, who was troubled at the tamasik energy that had plagued Kerala, erected the vigraha at Guruvayoor with the blessings of Mahadeva and Parvati Devi on the Shukla paksha Ekadashi of Vrishchikam. Ekadashi is also believed to be the goddess that arose from the Ekadashi ( 11 sense organs ) of Mahavishnu.The day is also called devshayani Ekadasi /haribodhini Ekadashi, as it marks the end of the four-month Yoga Nidra of Mahavishnu. During this time an asura named Mura challenged him to a duel, and Ekadashi Devi manifests from him and kills the asura. She was then bestowed with the boon that people will observe fast on the Ekadashi day and control their indriyas. Another relevance of this day is associated with Mahavishnu visiting Yamloka and granting the souls there liberation from their sins by uttering the word Ekadashi. Observing Ekadashi on the vrishchika skulka paksha gives a devotee the same virtue of having conducted a thousand aswamedha yagas and liberation from all their sins.

Guruvayoor thus holds a very significant relevance for the attainment of moksha in Kaliyuga. It’s not a coincidence that ardent devotees like Poonthanam Namboothiri and  Melpathur Bhattathirppad graced the temple premises with their presence and spent a long time meditating on the Bhagavan and gave us priceless treasures like Jnanappana and Narayaneeyam. Personally, no matter where one is, when the going gets tough, the mere thought of the Sandalwood paste smeared vigraha, would teleport you to the beautiful Temple.Flashing images of the busy shops at the entrance selling Krishna themed merchandise, the jasmine vendors, good-looking men and women in traditional wear, toddlers behaving every bit like the naughty Krishna, the fragrance of Paal payasam and octogenarians chanting Krishna namam fills your mind and nothing else would matter.Suddenly you would feel like you are home, at peace, loved and watched over.A slice of moksha, a beneficence extended to his devotees by the Bhakhtavalsalan, as he is rightly called.

(The sanctum sanctorum of the temple )

One of the most important traditions associated with the celebration is the lighting of Ekadashi lamps which starts a month before the Guruvayoor Ekadashi and is observed as an offering from the devotees.The temple would be exquisitely decorated with thousands of lamps shining brightly. Guruvayoorappan is the owner of the largest number of elephants in the whole of bhooloka , and the mighty tusker , Guruvayoor Keshavan who passed away on an Ekadashi day is honoured and remembered, and obeisance is paid to him.A grand elephant procession is carried out from the Guruvayoor temple to the nearby Parthasarathy temple.

Devotees eat only one full meal on this day and avoid rice and other tamasic food and observe fasting.Guruvayoor temple remains open during the whole day for extending the devotees the benefit of Darshan.The day is spent chanting Vishnu Sahasranamam, Ashtothram or maha-mantra.The fast is then broken on Dwadashi, the following day. Guruvayoor Ekadashi falls on the 30th of November this year. Adi Shankaracharya is said to have visited Guruvayoor, and that was at his behest that the grand celebrations or Ekadashi Maholsavam was started for the first time.I often chuckle at the neo- Vedantis who are almost brimming with nihilism, trying too hard to exalt the Advaita concept to question the need for temples, celebrations and traditions by quoting the omnipresence of Parabrahmam. It might come as a shock to them to know that, Sankaracharya, who is the father of Advaita Vedanta took such great pleasure in celebrating the Gita Jayanti and Guruvayoor Ekadashi . The relevance of upholding such traditions is paramount in today’s time.

I have often listened to my grandfather narrating stories of him walking for a whole day in his youth to pray at the temple on Guruvayoor ekadashi.It was unbelievable for a cynical child who would then ask, how can one walk for a day to go to a temple. He would smile and tell me that when the mind is filled with glimpses of his peacock feather, the benevolent smile and ears are filled with the transcendental flute music and when the mouth his chanting Krishna namam, you will not feel your steps, the path or the distance. All that matters is a glimpse of his holy vigraham and that is all that matters. It was only a while after that I understood the deep metaphorical beauty and profoundness of his statement.What is this life after all, if not a walk to Guruvayoor on foot, facing the adversities, tired, famished and fatigued and to meet Bhagavan and bow down at his lotus feet finally? There is no simpler way to explain life and moksha, at least for a Krishna Devotee.

Wishing everyone a happy and spiritual Ekadashi. Om Namo Bhagavate Vasudevaya.

Pic Credit: By Kuttix at English Wikipedia - Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons by Common Good using CommonsHelper., Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6455065