Bali, Indonesia is a place with a blend of culture, architecture and beautiful beaches, which makes it ideal for the tourists to visit. And it is a perfect place for an inexpensive vacation. Beyond the popular tourist spots like Kuta and Nusa Dua, the people’s lives for ages have been defined by their cultural heritage including their religion. I had traveled to Bali as part of my Indonesian trip in May of 2015 to explore my religion and heritage outside of India. My quest had started in 2008 after my eye opening moment during the early morning hours watching the sunrise at the magnificent Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

More than 95% of the people from the island of Bali practice Hinduism. Their culture has been preserved for centuries and their religious practices has not changed much since the introduction of Hinduism here. The reason being the Balinese fervently protected their religion even to the extent of committing mass suicide rituals (called Puputans covered in detail below). In this travelogue, I will be covering some of the Balinese cultural heritage grounded around their religion. Also I will be covering some temples which are at the core of their religious beliefs. Do note that my attempt at writing about their culture is similar to the story of the blind men and the elephant.

Pretty girl in a coffee shop in Ubud was dressed in a skirt but wore the Sarong on top of her skirt to perform her morning puja. She proudly declared she is a Hindu when she found out that I am of Indian descent.

Balinese Hinduism Background

Religion play a significant part in the everyday lives of Balinese.  Every morning, I witnessed the Balinese perform Puja with offerings (called Canang Sari) in their shops or to the idols of Gods and Padmasana (empty thrones representing Lord Widi Wasa covered later in detail) on the streets and roads. Hinduism in Bali is a mix of animism, ancestor worship and Hinduism of India.  The deified ancestor worship is similar to the ancient Tamilnadu in India, where hero worship or “Nadukal Vazhipadu” is a prominent part of the Hindu culture in those parts of the country and is practiced even today. Though this practice is not a part of the mainstream Hinduism, it was included in the Hindu belief and a connection was established through Sthalapuranas between these idols and Vedic gods. The current form of Hinduism, Shaivaite Hinduism was introduced by Dang Hyang Nirarth, who traveled from the Majapahit Kingdom in Central Java in the 15th century after the Islamic forces conquered most of the Java and many Hindus were forced to relocate (some located to Probolinggo and villages around Mount Bromo in East Java and rest of them to Bali).

Their primary almighty is Ida Sang Hyang Widi Wasa or Acintya and all the gods they pray to, Brahma, Vishnu and Siva along with Saraswati and Ganesha are all believed to be the manifestation of the primary almighty, Widi Wasa. Though many people have the idea that Indonesian Hinduism is different from Indian Hinduism, Widi Wasa is none other than Brahman (the highest Universal Principle) in India (not to be confused with one of the Trimurthys, Brahma). Widi Wasa has been popular since 1950s, after Indonesian Government through “Panchasila” (different from Indian Panchsheel, 5 principles signed between India and China during Nehru period), recognized only monotheism and wanted all people to identify with one of the monotheistic religions. Balinese in the 1950s consulted the Indian Government and together strengthened the concept of Widi Wasa gaining recognition for Hinduism. Widi Wasa is presented as empty throne or Padmasana on the street corners and temples of Bali today. Other Gods such as Ganesha could be seen everywhere while Trimurthys are depicted in the temples. Tenggerese in Eastern Java have similar beliefs and is covered in a previous travelogue about Mount Bromo.

Supreme God, Ida Sang Hyang Widi Wasa represented in Padmasana or empty throne Photo Credit: Hema Saran

Balinese Temples at the core of the cultural influence

As part of the religion, temples exert significant cultural influence on the Balinese. Do understand that Balinese temples are called Pura. Each village in Bali has a minimum of 3 temples, for each of the Trimurthys of the Hindu religion, Brahma (temple called Pura Puseh to represent origin of life as Brahma is the creator of life), Vishnu (temple called Pura Desa to represent flourishing life as Vishnu is the preserver of life) and Siva (temple called Pura Dalem to represent death as Lord Siva is the destroyer). This practice of 3 temples in each village or Kahyangan Tigas was introduced by the Priest, Dang Hyang Nirarth. I could see temples in every street and road I traveled through. No wonder Bali is called “Land of 1000 temples”.

Subak System

Closely intertwined with the religion and temple is another cultural heritage called the Subak system. It epitomizes the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, philosophy of harmony among humans, harmony with God and harmony with nature.  Subak is a traditional irrigation system of Bali, which is a blend of technology and philosophy. Water from the lakes and springs pass through the Bali temples of various sizes before it reaches the terraced rice fields thus providing the tie-up between the agrarian community (who form 90% of the Bali population) and the Bali temples. The temple, Pura Ulun Danu in Lake Bratan in Bedugul area, is one of the supreme water sources of the Subak system.  The Goddess is Devi Danu. Constructed in 1633, this beautiful temple (depicted in 50,000 Indonesian Rupiah note) is also one of the 9 directional temples protecting the Bali island from the evil spirits.  Subak system provides the organic cultivation, where the farmers avoid pesticides and fertilizers due to the lands being considered sacred. Subak system covers 20,000 hectares of rice fields and 5 rice terraces. It was declared a UNESCO heritage site in 2012. I visited 2 rice terraces, Tegalalang in Ubud and Jatiluwih in Mount Batukaru. Between these, Jatiluwih was a sight to behold.         `

Pura Ulun Danu in Bratan temple, one of the supreme water sources of the Subak system

Jatiluwih rice terrace, part of the Subak system and an UNESCO heritage site Photo Credit: Hema Saran

Balinese Architecture

The fundamentals of Balinese temple architecture follow the Hindu cosmology. Pura Taman Ayun or the Temple of the Royal in Mengwi area, epitomizes the Balinese temple architecture. Taman Ayun has the towers of Pelinggih (Meru) and is built on the three mandala concept based on Vastu Shastra, a Hindu architectural style practiced for more than 3000 years in India. The towers of Pelinggih or Meru represents the sacred Meru mountain mentioned in the ancient Indian literatures. Meru mountain is the abode of Gods to keep the discussions concise. The tri-mandala concept is that the temples are separated into outer, middle, inner courtyards or Nista, Madhya, Utama Mandalas separated by different gates. Candi Bentar or split gates opens into Nista Mandala and Kori Agung or roof towered gates (Paduraksha style) sits between Madhya Mandala and Utama Mandala.  Do note that the shrines in the Nista Mandala in this temple will be open only during important religious ceremonies.

Inner courtyard or Utama Mandala with the Pelinggih (or Meru) and Garuda statue shown in the front at Pura Taman Ayun

Kori Agung or Paduraksha style roof towered gates sits between Middle and Inner Courtyards at Pura Taman Ayun

Bali Topography and Hindu cosmology

The Bali topography is based on the Hindu cosmology. The mountains are the heaven or Swarga loka, where Gods and ancestors reside and most temples in Bali are located on the mountains. As an example, their mother temple, Pura Besakih, sits on the Mount Agung volcano.  Balinese believe Mount Agung to be Mount Meru. Besakih is a temple complex of 23 different temples. Each temple has Pelinggihs or Merus (pyramidal structure typical of Bali architecture representing Mount Meru). These temples are in parallel ridges offering a panoramic view. The main temple is Pura Penataran Agung sitting at 6 levels in a single axis in a stepped Pyramidal structure. At the center of the temple is a Padmasana or a throne representing Ida Sang Hyang Widi Wasa (or Acintya or Brahman), the supreme God from whom all the Gods of Hinduism manifest. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. On the right side as you face the Mount Agung is Pura Dangin Kreteg, a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu in a parallel ridge. On the other side is Pura Batu Madeg, a temple dedicated to Lord Brahma. The rest of the temples are dedicated to other Gods including ancestors of royals of Klungkung, Karangesam, Bangli.

Pura Besakih, Mother temple for most Balinese Photo Credit: Hema Saran

Pura Penantaran in Pura Besakih temple complex with Mount Agung Volcano with lenticular clouds in the background Photo Credit: Hema Saran

The plains and foothills are called Bhu loka or abode of man and most of the Balinese villages are located in the foothills and the plains.

The sea is impure and is the underworld or Bhuvar loka. Not many temples are found in the sea. One of the few exceptions is Pura Tanah Lot. The main deity is Dewa Baruna or sea god. The temple is accessible only during low tides. There are other shore temples like Penyawang near Tanah Lot. Nevertheless, this temple is one of the 7 sea temples and a must see place in Bali and the visual treat it offers is something out of the ordinary.  Legend has it that this temple was constructed by Dang Hyang Nirarth, founder of the Shaivaite priesthood in Bali, in the 15th century.

Pura Tanah Lot on the sea, believed to be constructed by Dang Hyang Nirarth

Other Cultural Beliefs and Practices

Another interesting cultural practice is Ngaben or Balinese cremation ceremony of the deceased. Cremation ceremony is very elaborate and expensive. So the dead are buried initially in a coffin and may take years before they are cremated in a temple called Prajapati after the relatives of the dead have enough money to spend for the ceremony.

Cremation tables used in Ngaben in front of the Padmasana in Pura Prajapati, Ubud Monkey Temple Photo Credit: Hema Saran

Balinese buried on a temporary basis and will be cremated later as part of Ngaben ceremony in Ubud Monkey Temple. Do note the Swastika in one of the headstones.

Puputan is the ritualistic suicide behind Bali being a Hindu region. In 1906, Dutch attacked Kingdom of Badung, Bali and reached the palace at Denpasar. The King emerged from the palace along with 400 followers including wives, children and priests all dressed in white symbolizing the death ceremony, in a silent procession. Once they came out, they started stabbing each other instead of surrendering to the Dutch. The Dutch soldiers were stunned as the deaths mounted and many threw jewels at the startled Dutch. The king himself was stabbed by the chief priest and ultimately all the 400 died. Another 2 Puputans happened in Tabanan and Klungkung. These brave Puputans (literally meaning the end) made a serious dent on the image of the Dutch colonists back home, who strived to protect the Balinese culture and religious beliefs to salvage their reputation through Dutch Ethical Policy. The preservation of the culture unlike South America is the reason Hinduism in Bali is the dominant religion and has emerged as a popular destination for travelers.

Mahabharata scene with Arjuna and Krishna in the Chariot depicted in Mengwi

It would sound more clichéd especially as it is located in the SE Asian region.  Indian epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata are part of their culture. I sensed that as soon as I got out of the Denpasar International airport with giant statues of the Mahabharata characters placed on different roads. Needless to say, the temples are adorned with scenes from Ramayana. Even in the palace of Ubud I could see Mahabharata scenes depicted.

Statue of Bheema from Mahabharata on the roadside Photo Credit: Hema Saran

Hanuman in Ubud monkey temple.

 

Abhimanyu from Mahabharata on the wall of Ubud Palace

There are other interesting cultural practices like the Nyepi, which is the day of silence and is marked by silence, fasting and meditation. It is observed from 6 am to 6 am the next day. This is the day of introspection for most Balinese. The streets are empty and no sounds are heard. The tourists are expected to stay within the confines of their hotel. This day coincides with the Ugadi festival in India and normally it is in March or April and signifies the beginning of the new lunar year.

Other Temples

 I had visited few other temples like Pura Uluwatu and Goa Gajah though I am not covering it here in order to keep the travelogue succinct but have provided pictures of them below.  

Pura Uluwatu, another Sea temple in Southern Bali constructed in 11^th century CE dedicated to Universal God, Ida Sang Hyang Widi Wasa in his manifestation as Rudra.

Goa Gajah or Elephant cave, constructed in the 9^th century CE

Tips and Warnings

Do carry Sarong to visit the temples. Watch out for monkeys in temples like Ubud monkey temple and Pura Uluwatu. When you exchange your dollars or other foreign currencies to Indonesian Rupiah, do so at a bank. Once you count the money do not allow the exchange broker to touch it as you would be missing few thousand Rupiah notes.

Where to Stay?

I stayed at Hotel Euphoria in Kuta as I wanted the commercial atmosphere and an option to drop off my main luggage there while I traveled to other parts of Indonesia. Nusa Dua in the South has lots of resorts while Ubud is the place to be if you want a serene surroundings.

How to get around?

There are different options available to travel around Bali. I rented a scooter as it is the cheapest mode of transportation for short distances.  And I hired a taxi with the driver at $45 for 10 hours for long distances. The rental company and the English speaking driver I chose was http://www.thebalidriver.com/team_item/putu-adiputra and had a good experience. Do note International riding permit along with International driving license is a must for driving scooters to avoid any unpleasant encounters with the police. And do not break the law while driving even if the locals driving in front of you break the law.